The issue about the makeup industry in the modern day is social media and filters. Everyone wants to look like a flawless Kardashian sister but that's just not realistic. Skin has texture and people need to understand that! There are however some techniques you can use to make your base look as flawless as possible when doing your makeup!
Below is going to be the step by step process I use to create some of my natural base applications for my short film work.
Skin Prep
Preparing the models skin is one of the most important parts of the makeup application process. You wouldn't paint a thrifted table without cleaning, sanding and priming would you? Using some of my Cerave cleanser and extra large cotton pads, I will usually cleanse the models face. Focusing on the inner portion of the face like the nose, forehead and chin areas. Then using some of The Ordinary Glycolic Toner in a spray bottle, I will mist it over the clients face. This is often a step I will skip however, I will never skip this next step. After this, I will use my holy grail priming moisturiser, the Embryolisse Lait Creme Concentrate - this has been a staple in my kit for years now and has recently gone viral on TikTok for it's incredible powers. This product is so versatile that I will often pop it on the lips also to nourish and hydrate, and will also let this work as a makeup primer.
Colour Correction
Now this is not a step that is necessary for all clients but for models who have some blemishes or darkness under the eyes, I will often take the time to try and correct the pigment in these before going in with my foundation base.
To cover rosacea or blemishes, I will scrape some of my Pierre Rene Colour Corrector (the green shade) onto a palette and mix it with my Revolution Pro Conceal and Hydrate concealer. I will mix this with a brush before applying it to the skin. If the skin is broken however, I usually opt for a cotton bud so this can be thrown away without spreading the bacteria across the face. Once applied, I will leave it for a while before touching it with a brush. For dark circles, I will often use some of the Kryolan grease paint in D30, scraped out onto a palette and then mixing it with the same concealer mentioned before. I will follow the same application steps however will ensure to set it through with a translucent powder. My usual choices of powder are the loose and pressed version of the RCMA No-Colour powders as these have no colour in them whatsoever (where as some translucent powders are not actually translucent) and do a great job of setting everything down. Setting this through will ensure that the orange colour is not picked up again when I go in with foundation and concealer.
Foundation
Now for foundation, I often opt for the RCMA VK-18 palettes as they have a variety of shades with numerous undertones hence can be used on a lot of clients. I have tried numerous ways of using this palette like scraping some out and the mixing it with a foundation or picking it straight out of the palette and I prefer this method. I am a very clean artist however and ensure to spray my palette down before and after use with 99% alcohol so that no bacteria is transferred from client to client. The brush I find best for this is something like the Laroc Pro LP20 dense cream contour brush as it fits really nicely into the pans and provides the harshness needed to pick up and deposit the product nicely. I will also use this same palette for concealer to just provide a natural highlight under the eyes
Using the same powders as mentioned above, I will usually use either a powder puff or a Laroc Pro brush again to set it through. I would definitely recommend their brush set, such great value for money.
Bronzer and Blush
To add colour back Ito the face, I will use both a bronzer and blush to add structure and depth to the cheeks to give the face life again. Some products I love are the Pierre Rene Powder Contouring palette as it is very buildable but can provide good bronze to more fair skin tones. For deeper skin tones, have found that the Morphe 8 pan bronzing/blush palettes are brilliant for providing a highlight tone, bronzer, contour, blush and highlight all in one place. I personally have the 8R Thats Rich palette and that is quite dark. Am very surprised and happy to note that there is a palette even darker than this in their collection.
For blush, I like to use some of the Pierre Rene blush singles. I could not tell you which shades I have however they are all similar to the bronzer in that they are buildable and provide a finish that is not powdery.
Finishing Touches
I will usually finish off a simple look with some brow powder and dark brown mascara to define the eyes before then setting the face with the Kryolan Fixing Spray. This product is by far one of the best things within my kit. It will set makeup down for a full shoot day and will ensure that your skin doesn't look caked or powdery but gives a natural schene that skin looks like.
Thank you if you have read this far, if you enjoyed this little blog please do let me know and if you want any more content like this - please comment below or drop me a message!
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